Polaroid Originals Film FAQs...

  1. Our 8×10 film is integral film

    Our 8×10 film is different from the original Polaroid 8×10 film. It is an integral film, meaning that in normal use the positive and negative stay together and are not peeled apart. This integral film will work with any 8×10 camera equipped to accept a Polaroid film holder. Additionally you will need a Polaroid 8×10 processor. We recommend using an electrically powered processor for more consistent results. If you use the hand crank function of the processor, turn the handle quickly and smoothly.

  2. Keep negative and positive batches together

    Negative and positive frame batches can vary from batch to batch. Each box of film contains a positive and a negative which are a photographic match. The photographic batch number is visible on the negative frame on the black tab. On the positive the photographic batch number is visible on silver mask near the trap.The batch number consists of one letter and 3 digits. For example C001 would mean photographic batch 001 of colour film and similarly B001 would mean photographic batch 001 of B&W film. The batch number of a positive and negative that are processed together should be identical.

  3. Refrigerate your film until use

    We recommend refrigerating the film until use, but do not freeze. Before use allow the film to adjust to room temperature for at least one hour. The film works best at temperatures around room temperature. When shooting at deviating temperatures, try to process your images at a temperature close to room temperature. Use the film within 12 months of the production date. See stamp on the film carton sticker. Learn more on how to store Polaroid Originals film in this article.


  4. Intended for ASA 640, though this may vary

    The film is intended for ASA640. Film sensitivity may vary. Allow +/- 1/3 stop. Suitable for daylight or Xenon flash exposure. Colour and ASA can vary in response to temperature and different ambient light sources. In direct sunlight do not pull off the protective envelope until you are about to shoot.


  5. Bear in mind images are mirrored

    In most cases the images obtained with this film will be the mirror image of the original. For example the text will be reversed. If readable text is important to your image, we recommend trying to shoot via a mirror or using an image transparency or image lifting technique to revert the image to its original orientation.


  6. Caution: avoid contact with the film paste

    Some developing paste may seep from the edges of the photo. This paste is a caustic substance! Avoid contact with skin, eyes or mouth. If you get paste on your skin, eyes or mouth, wipe if off immediately, flush with fresh water to avoid an alkali burn and consult a doctor. Avoid contact with the paste by holding the photo by the black tab and refraining from touching the edges. The paste can also be wiped off with a moist tissue. Keep discarded materials and paste away from children, animals, clothing and furniture.

  7. Development

    We recommend letting your photo develop in the processor for approximately 5 minutes. Photos will appear as a light blue initially and will remain so during most of the development time. This is normal. B&W images will take 5-10 minutes to develop. Color images will take between 30-40 minutes to develop. Handle with care during development. Do not shake or bend the photo.

  8. Dry your photos thoroughly

    A newly processed 8×10 photo consists of a layer of wet developing

    paste sandwiched between a negative and a transparent sheet. In this configuration 8×10 photos can take between 3 to 4 weeks to dry completely.

    General recommendations:

    • Do not stack the photos when they are still fresh and wet.
    • Maintain sufficient airspace around the images when drying
    • Dry down prints in a cool, moderate to low humidity environment


  9. Keep the processor’s rollers clean

    Check and clean your processor‘s rollers between prints. Any dirt or residue left on the rollers may cause an imprint on the image.

  10. Technical specifcations

    • Film speed: ASA 640 +/- 1/3 stop.
    • Exposures: 10 exposures per box.
    • Development time: B&W film images will take 5-10 minutes to develop. Color film images will take between 30-40 minutes to develop.
    • Dimensions: Format 8“x10“. Image area 7.5“ x 9.35“ (19 x 24 cm).
    • Finish: Glossy.
    • Compatible hardware: 8×10 Polaroid processor and any camera .equipped to accept an 8×10 Polaroid film holder.
    • Additional equipment needed: Polaroid 8×10 Processor and film holder.

Unfortunately, we can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!

Please carefully dispose of your empty film cartridges as per the law in your local area. Keep in mind that our film packs for vintage Polaroid cameras (600, SX-70 and Spectra) contain a lithium-ion battery inside the film pack.

This may mean that you need to dispose of the plastic cassette, the metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. If this is the case for you, then please follow our guide on how to safely dismantle and separate your empty film cartridge below.

Be sure to tape over the silver electrical contacts on the battery with duct tape (or similar) to prevent dangerous electrical conductivity.



Here are the instructions to recycle your empty Polaroid film pack:

  1. Crush the opening of the film pack (where the film comes out) with your thumbs to create a larger opening

  2. Remove the spring – carefully! Some of the edges are pretty sharp.

  3. Remove the battery – and cover the electrical contacts with tape immediately.

  4. Dispose of the plastic cassette, metal spring and lithium-ion battery separately.

    Note: You can dispose of batteries in most stores that sell them, as well as big box stores, supermarkets, town halls, schools and libraries. Your local government authority will have information available to help find the best place for you.


If you are at all uncertain about this process, please get in touch with our Customer Support team directly and, we’ll guide you through the dismantling procedure safely.

The one-of-a-kind analog nature of Polaroid photography is part of what makes the medium so magical, but sometimes it’d be nice to share your latest selfie with your mom back home or post a picture up on your Facebook profile. We’re all about sharing moments here, and sometimes creating a digital copy of your instant photo is the best option – after all, email is a little bit faster than snail mail these days.

So, what’s the best way to scan your Polaroid pictures? Speed, photo quality and pesky reflections are all considerations. Here’s an overview of some of the most common methods Polaroid photographers use to make digital copies of their pictures, and the pros and cons of each method.


  1. Smartphone & app-based scanning
  2. Flatbed scanning
  3. Sheetfed scanning
  4. Digital camera scanning

1. Smartphone & app-based scanning

Using your smartphone to take photos of your photos is the most convenient option and requires the least amount of specialized technology. While using your favorite camera app is a simple option, you’ll often end up with distracting reflections. Changing your camera angle might help, but then you can have perspective problems where the photo isn’t perfectly square. Annoying, right?

Dedicated photo scanning apps are a dime a dozen these days, but some stand out from the pack. We recommend our own Polaroid Originals app which takes care of both reflections and perspective issues for you.

ScanningFAQ-Illustrations02-01_crop.jpg img_apple_app_store.svg

2. Flatbed scanning

If getting the highest quality scans possible is your goal with the intention of archiving, sharing or printing, a flatbed scanner is hands-down the best option. The downside is that high-end models can cost a pretty penny, and the learning curve is a bit more involved. The actual scanning process is slow and, naturally, the scanner itself will take up some of your precious desk space.


You’ll also likely want to buy (or make) a scanning adapter to get the best results from your scanner – for more information on why, read our article about Newton’s rings here.

But when it comes to getting the highest quality scans possible, flatbed scanners are an excellent option for aspiring enthusiasts and professional photographers alike.

3. Sheetfed scanning

Sheetfed scanners like the Doxie scanner are simple, portable scanning machines. You simply feed your photo into one end and it passes right through, and out the other side. With this method, you get a digital copy of your picture that’s high-quality, free from reflections and requires very little know-how. The downside is that sheetfed scanners aren’t the cheapest option out there, do not offer much in the way of customisation and they can sometimes create issues with horizontal lines if you don’t feed your picture into the scanner perfectly straight.



If you have a little bit of coin to spend on your scanning setup, but don’t want to go too far down the rabbit-hole, something like a sheetfed scanner might work for you as one of the quicker scanning options available.

4. Digital camera ‘scanning’

Similar to using the camera app in your smartphone, using a higher resolution digital camera (like a DSLR) to make digital copies of your photos is a cheap and easy option, assuming you already have a digital camera somewhere. The downside is trying to eliminate glare while maintaining correct perspective. If you’ve got a 2-3 point studio lighting system available, this method can yield very high resolution results with a bit of playing around with the lighting angles. If not, look to create a very diffuse lighting environment (such as a room with many windows on a cloudy day), and always shoot with a tripod.


Wait a minute, is it possible to scan the negative directly?

Unfortunately, no.

Polaroid film negatives are completely integrated into the film itself. Even if you were to remove the negative using scissors and a little know-how, you’d discover that the negative is actually opaque and not translucent. As a result, light isn’t able to passed through like a traditional film negative, so scanning simply isn’t possible with Polaroid photo negatives.

X-ray machines affect your film. It’s best to keep it in your carry-on, but to ask for a hand-check instead. 

Film in checked-in luggage will be most likely affected. 

In the past, the carry-on x-ray scanners did not damage the film. But since the end of 2019, new scanners are being installed in certain airports. These scanners damage the film as they do a 360° scan using a higher radiation dose. Therefore, we recommend having the film hand-checked. This will guarantee that the film is not damaged by the radiation. 

Damaged film typically shows a pinkish hue and a washed-out, foggy look throughout the photo. Great, if you’re a fan of all things pink, but not so much for everyone else. 

A note about exposed film (film you’ve already exposed) is completely unaffected by x-rays, so it will be fine in any baggage. 

Summertime is the best time for shooting Polaroid Originals film: longer days with plenty of natural light, sun-drenched afternoons at the beach, and road trips with friends. With one arm out the window, and all our worries somewhere in the rear-view mirror, it can be easy to forget that Polaroid Originals film is a bit more sensitive to the heat than we are. By taking care to keep your film and camera cool, you can be sure you’ll get better and more consistent results.


When Polaroid pictures develop, several different reactions happen, and they need to occur in a well-timed fashion for the best results. Chemical reactions are temperature-dependent, and our film is designed to work best between 55-82 °F (13-28 °C). Outside of this range, you’ll still get a result, but you may notice some unusual photo characteristics. Photos that have been exposed to high temperatures during development may be faded and orange-toned. Here are some sample photos where the ambient temperature was above 82 °F (28 °C)


photo Deborah Santarpia
Note: red/yellow color cast, slight over-exposure


 photo Nigel Willox
 Note: drastically reduced contrast

Here are some tips to get you through the dog days of summer with more consistent, true-to-life results:

  • Store your film cool prior to shooting
  • Let your film develop in a cool environment
    • Inside your beach cooler, or under a cold beverage are convenient options – just make sure to keep the developing photo dry!
  • Under-expose your photo
  • Use a yellow filter (applies to black and white film only)
    • Using a yellow filter generally creates higher contrast black and white photos

Sometimes, you may find that your photo does not eject from the camera after you take a picture, or the protective black darkslide doesn’t eject when you put a new pack of film in your camera. This can be caused by one or more of the following:

  • Weak battery in the film pack or camera
  • The camera itself is defective
  • Corroded battery contacts on the film pack or camera

See below for potential causes and tips on how you can avoid ejection issues for each:

Weak battery in the film pack or camera

Please note that the flash and the ejection of the photo are triggered by the battery of either the camera (for newer i-Type cameras) or the film pack (for vintage cameras). If you leave your camera open for a long time, the battery will be gradually drained. Make sure to close or turn off your camera whenever you aren’t using it, to prevent the flash from constantly charging and draining your camera’s or film pack’s battery.

The camera itself may be defective

If you put a pack of film in your camera and you hear the camera respond with a motor noise but nothing comes out, try to re-insert the pack of film. If that still doesn’t work, try inserting a different pack of film. If the camera won’t eject the darkslide or photos for either pack, then your camera is defective and will need to be repaired. Basically, the part inside the camera that pushes each photo forward isn’t working.

Corroded battery contacts on the film pack or camera

Older Polaroid cameras may have corroded or soiled battery contacts, preventing them from connecting with the battery properly. The contacts in the camera are two copper springs that extend from the bottom of the film compartment. You can either try to clean them with a flat, slim object (such as a flathead screwdriver) or you simply remove and reinsert the film cassette several times, to scratch possible oxidation and corrosion off of the contacts.

Below is a list of the 11 most commonly seen film issues when shooting with Polaroid Originals film. Scroll through the examples, find the example photos that most show the issue you are experiencing, and click on the link below it to learn more about it and how you can prevent it in the future.


wFilm-Issue---Blur-Ex1-_NW_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Blur-Ex2-_NW_.jpg

Blurry / Out-of focus



Too Light / Faint / Overexposed


wFilm-Issue---Underexposed-Ex2-_MS_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Underexposed-Ex2-_IC_.jpg

Too Dark / Underexposed


wFilm-Issue---Roller-Dots-Ex2-_IC_.jpg WFilm-Issue---Roller-Dots-Ex1-_IC_.jpg

Large Repeating Dots


wFilm-Issue---Opacification-Fail-Ex2-_IC_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Opacification-Fail-Ex3-_IC_.jpg

Blue Marks (Opacification Failure)


wFilm-Issue---Shutter-Fail-Ex2-_NW_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Shutter-Fail-Ex1.jpg

Completely Black or Completely White


wFilm-Issue---U-break-Ex2-_LJ_.jpg wFilm-Issue---U-break-Ex1-_IC_.jpg

Undeveloped Patches (U/V-break)


wFilm-Issue---Verical-Stripe-Ex1-_IC_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Vertical-Stripe-Ex2-_NW_.jpg

Vertical Stripes

 PolaScan_coldweather2_NLW.jpg PolaScan_coldweather_NLW.jpg

Blue (Cold) Color Cast

NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_028_final.jpg itype-Peter_Polar_029_final.jpg

Pink / Orange Color Cast

NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_027_edit.jpg img091__1__edit.jpg

Low Contrast

Original Polaroid integral film and the current Polaroid Originals integral film are identical in their size and dimensions. Well, actually, Polaroid Originals film is a little thicker, but that’s another story.

Polaroid Originals SX-70, 600 and i-Type film measures exactly 3.108 × 3.024 inches (photo area) and 4.233 x 3.483 inches (total area). That’s 7.894 x 7.6801 cm (photo area) and 10.752 x 8.847 cm (total area). 

Polaroid Originals Spectra/Image film is wider than it is tall, and measures exactly 2.890 x 3.574 inches (photo area) and 4.051 x 3.996 inches (total area). That’s 7.341 x 9.078 cm (photo area) and 10.290 x 10.150 cm (total area).  





Read more about what film to use with Polaroid and Polaroid Originals cameras

Polaroid Originals film is different from the Polaroid film of the past. Much of the chemistry and components used by Polaroid(™) are no longer available, so we had to reinvent the film using entirely new materials and a new formula. Needless to say, it wasn’t easy.

One downside of this is that Polaroid Originals film sheets are slightly thicker than the old Polaroid(™) film sheets. As a result, it’s not possible to fit 10 photos in the film cartridge, and we obviously can’t change the size of the film cartridge – because then it wouldn’t fit in the camera. The only solution was to put 8 film sheets in each pack, instead of 10.

This means that the frame counter on your Polaroid(™) camera will always be off by 2. Whenever you insert a new pack of film into your camera, the frame counter will reset to 10 automatically, but this actually means you have 8 photos left. When the frame counter shows 2, it means you’ve used all the photos in your pack.



Each Polaroid Originals photo is composed of:

  • A light-sensitive negative – a film base coated with layers of silver halide grains, image dyes and inter-layers
  • A transparent cover sheet – this lets the image be exposed to the negative, and keeps all the chemicals safely inside the film
  • A thin foil pod – located at the bottom of each frame, containing enough reagent to develop your picture

We know sometimes you start one pack of film, but then you see something that would be perfect with a different film, but your pack isn’t done yet, or maybe you want to take the same film and put it in a different camera. Either way, the concern is the same.

In short, yes you can change film packs mid-way and not ruin your film, there’s just a few key things to remember.

First, keep and carry dark slides. If you don’t already carry them to use for shielding, this is a good habit to start. The dark slide is the key to switching packs. Also, if you encounter a camera malfunction, you can use the dark slide to remove your pack with film in it and put an empty in to help troubleshoot your camera without wasting film.

Second, note ambient light. Follow the steps in our video on how to insert the dark slide to put it over the top frame of film, and remember to do this in subdued light. The front of the pack isn’t light tight and especially with the camera door open. If you insert a dark slide in too much light you will flash some of the film, at least on the top frame.

Lastly, even after you’ve taken the pack out and have the dark slide in place, be mindful of light leaks and torn dark slides. Make sure you cover the back corner of the pack so there isn’t a light leak there, and make sure the same corner on the dark slide isn’t torn. This could prevent it from ejecting properly when putting the pack back into a camera.

Also note this trick is a little harder, though not impossible, with Spectra packs because they have a slightly different design.

Remember these tips and follow the instructions in the video and you should be able to capture the moments you want with the right film or camera.

Keep your rollers clean.

After the film pack is inserted into the camera, the darkslide – a piece of card protecting your film from light – is automatically ejected, uncovering the top sheet of film and positioning the film for exposure.

When you take a photo, the camera’s exposure control system determines the correct combination of aperture, shutter speed and (in cameras that have them) flash to get the best photo.

During exposure, the shutter opens, projecting an image through the transparent film cover sheet, creating a latent image on the silver halide emulsion in the negative.

After the shutter closes, the photo is ejected out of the film pack, passing between two rollers. These rollers rupture a chemistry pod filled with reagent at the bottom of the film frame, spreading the reagent evenly across the negative.

Contained within the reagent compound are white pigment, opacifying dyes, alkali, water and polymeric thickener and other photographically active materials.

Once it’s ejected from the camera, the exposed photo begins the development process. During development, instant film goes through essentially the same chemical process as conventional wet-process photographic development. The difference with instant print film is that the chemical process all happens automatically, with a single solution.

In black and white images, the development process involves the migration of silver compounds that have not been exposed to light on the negative sheet, to a separate receptor sheet. Color imaging involves a similar migration, but uses dyes from at least three different layers. In color photography the primary colors are red, blue, and green. Their complements are cyan, yellow, and magenta, in that order.

Polaroid Originals’ black & white film currently has a development time of approximately 5-7 minutes, while our color film develops in approximately 15 minutes, but we’re constantly working on creating the next generation of film, with faster development times, quicker emergence and sharper images.

Please click here for further support or alternatively email us at polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

To load a pack of film in an Impossible or Polaroid camera, slide the film door latch to open the film door. Push the film cassette all the way in, with darkslide up and plastic base at the bottom.


When you close the film door, the darkslide will eject from the camera automatically, underneath the Film Shield. The plastic Film Shield is designed to protect images from light as they develop – it should not be removed. Take the darkslide out from under the Film Shield and let the Film Shield roll back up. If the darkslide has not ejected, take out the film pack and re-insert it, making sure it is pushed all the way to the back of the camera.


If you’re still unsure, watch Peter and Heinz do it below:


Here’s a detailed guide to getting the best results with Polaroid Originals film. Check the list of contents below for specific points, or have a read through to get the whole picture.


  1. Proper storage (undeveloped/unexposed film)
  2. Expiration dates
  3. Camera roller maintenance
  4. Exposure compensation
  5. Temperature
  6. Shield it!
  7. Proper storage (developed film)
  8. Recycling your film cartridges




Proper storage of Polaroid Originals film will ensure that the film chemistry remains stable and that your photos achieve and retain the best color, contrast and detail for as long as possible.

Polaroid Original film packs should be stored in their unopened, sealed packaging in a cool and dry environment. We recommend storing our film flat inside a fridge at a constant temperature between 4 – 18°C / 41 – 65°F. Do not freeze your film packs! This will damage the chemistry and your film will not perform properly when used.

Our film will not perform as desired at cooler temperatures. Therefore, it must be allowed to return to room temperature before use. We recommend allowing at least 1 hour to allow your film to return to ambient temperature before shooting.


Full article: How to store Polaroid film




All Polaroid Original film should be used within 12 months of production date for best results (you can find the production date stamped on the bottom of each film package).

Chemical changes occur as our film ages, and this will eventually affect how well your film performs. While proper storage will mitigate the effects of chemical ageing, the expiration date marks the point in this process after which it is unlikely that the film will produce images that meet our standards of quality. You will still get some variety of result from expired film, but there may be artefacts or defects for which we are unable to accept warranty claims.




In order to spread the chemistry between the negative and positive part of the photo, the picture goes through two rollers found inside the film door of your camera. If they are dirty, the chemistry will not be spread evenly. This is the most common source of undesirable film defects.

Therefore, you should regularly check that the rollers of your camera are clean. They are accessible by opening the film door compartment of the camera, and can be easily cleaned with a soft cloth, dampened with clean water. We recommend checking the rollers of your camera before inserting each pack of film, and cleaning them regularly – even when they look clean to the naked eye.


 Full article: How to clean your camera rollers




Most Polaroid Originals film types have the correct/original ASA and do not require exposure compensation. This list includes: i-Type, 600, Spectra, and 8×10 Film.


The exception is, of course, the SX-70. Polaroid Originals’ current generation of SX-70 film has a slightly higher ASA/ISO than its traditional Polaroid counterpart. This means that our film is more sensitive to light, or “faster”. We recommend that you adjust the exposure wheel or slide on your Polaroid camera 1/3 towards the darken setting when shooting in bright, well-lit conditions.


If you are shooting using your camera’s built-in flash, make sure that the lighten/darken wheel or slider of your camera is adjusted to the middle position. Keep in mind that the built-in flash on Polaroid cameras is usually only effective in a range of 1 – 2.5 meters (3.3 – 8.2 ft).


Full article: Exposure Compensation on your Polaroid Camera




Polaroid Originals film works best in temperatures between 13 – 28°C (55 – 82°F). Temperatures significantly outside of that range can affect Polaroid Originals instant film in terms of development time and colour.


Shooting in the cold (< 13°C):


Below 13°C (55°F), photos tend to emerge over-exposed, lacking colour contrast and with a cyan (blue) tint. When shooting at lower temperatures, let your images develop in the inside pocket of your jacket or somewhere else close to your body. We also recommend carrying your camera close to your body in order to keep the film pack and camera at operational temperature.


Shooting in the heat  (> 28°C):


Above 28°C (82°F), colour photos tend to develop with a yellow/red tint. When shooting at higher temperatures, cool your film packs in the fridge before taking them outside. You can minimise the effect of heat by letting the photo process in cooler surroundings, such as an air-conditioned room, an insulated bag, or beneath a cold beverage (be careful to avoid moisture though!).


Full article: How temperature affects Polaroid film




Polaroid Originals film is sensitive to light even after it has been ejected from the camera. During these sensitive first few seconds, the film shield installed on your camera will extend on top of the photo and protect it from light. This allows enough time for the blue opacification layer to spread over the whole image.


After the first few moments have passed, your photo can be removed from under the film shield. However, it will still be sensitive to light! It should still be kept shielded from strong light sources. For example, try to keep the image:


  • Face down on a table
  • Inside a jacket pocket
  • Inside an empty film box


Shielding the photo during development time (check the back of your film package for specific times) will ensure that you get deeper saturation, sharper details and that your final image is not washed out.


Full article: Shielding your photos from light

Read how to install a film shield in a vintage Polaroid 600 camera in this article.


Read how to install a film shield on a vintage Polaroid SX-70 camera in this article.




After shooting Polaroid film, a number of chemical reactions will continue to occur. This is the only copy of your photo, so do your best to take care of it. This means keeping your photos out of direct sunlight and at a normal temperature.


30 days after exposure:


For long-term storage, we recommend that your photos are not compressed or sealed (in a photo album, for example) for the first 30 days. This will enable the photos to dry out completely and for the chemical processes to halt.


30+ days after exposure:


After 30 days, storing photos in an album or similar fashion is acceptable. Storing your photos in a dry, dark environment protected from UV radiation is always the best practice – if you want to frame your photos, we recommend using frames with UV protection.


Full article: How to store Polaroid film




We can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!


We recommend recycling empty film cartridges as per the laws in your local area. If you use 600, Spectra or SX-70 film, remember that your cartridges contain a lithium-ion battery, and you should dispose of the plastic cartridge, metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. For a guide on how to do this safely, see our guide below.


Full article: How to recycle your empty film pack

Watch the below video for a quick overview of the film options you have when shooting with your Polaroid or Polaroid Originals camera:



Polaroid Originals currently produces 5 distinct instant film formats. Some are cross-compatible across camera types, and some are not. The best way to tell which type of film your camera uses is to open the film door and look for a sticker which indicates the appropriate film type for your camera. The possibilities are:


  • i-Type
  • 600
  • SX-70
  • Spectra



All film types are briefly outlined below:



Screen_Shot_2017-09-13_at_11.30.17.png       FAQpage-iType-filmcameras.jpg


Polaroid Originals created i-Type film exclusively for use with new Polaroid Originals cameras. The important difference between 600 and i-Type film is the absence of a battery inside the film cartridge. This means that i-Type film will not work with vintage Polaroid cameras. New Polaroid Originals cameras have a built-in rechargeable battery, so they don’t need a battery to power the camera.


However, if you want to use 600 film with your Polaroid Originals camera, such as a special edition film pack, it will still work.


600 Type



600 is the most common film type for vintage cameras, and works with Polaroid’s popular 600 series of cameras. The majority of cameras will have a number in the 600-series in their name (e.g. Sun 660, LM630, SLR 680, and so on). You can always spot 600 film from its blue packaging. 600 film is also compatible with Polaroid Originals i-Type cameras, so if you ever want to use a special edition 600 film with your OneStep 2, you’ll have no problems at all.


SX-70 Type



SX-70 cameras operate slightly differently from other Polaroid™ instant cameras, so they need their own film. The biggest difference is the ASA – SX-70 film is roughly ¼ the sensitivity of 600 film, so it needs a lot more light to get a good photo. All folding-type cameras (except the 680/690 SLR models) use SX-70 film. 


SX-70 film is only available in classic colour and black & white editions, but if you want to use a special edition 600 film in your SX-70 camera, you can do so with a Neutral Density Filter. You can learn more about this, hereAlready got a Neutral Density film filter? Find full instructions on how to install it here.


Spectra Type



Spectra film is distinctly different from our other instant film formats, as it has wider, landscape dimensions compared to the square format of most Polaroid film formats; 2.9″ x 3.5”, to be exact. As a result, only Spectra film works with Spectra cameras. More about Polaroid film dimensions, here

Film formats produced by Polaroid at some point in time which we do not support


Looking for packfilm? Please read our article on the subject, here.


If you’re still not sure which film to use with your camera, drop us an email, and we’ll help find the right film for you:



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