FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS…

 

 

 

Media & Collaborations FAQs...

Would you or your company like to use a Polaroid product or trademark in your commercial, movie, or advertising campaign? Click here, fill out the form, and email it to branduse@polaroid.com. Easy peasy!

New Users FAQs...

Please click here for further support or alternatively email us at polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

Every photographer’s needs are unique, but with a little research into the differences between each camera model, you’ll be able to work out which model best suits your style. Here’s a comparison between 5 of the most common Polaroid model types:

 

  1. Polaroid Originals OneStep+ i-Type Camera
  2. Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 i-Type Camera
  3. Polaroid® 600 Box-Type Cameras

 

1.POLAROID ORIGINALS ONESTEP+ I-TYPE CAMERA

 

OneStep__Front_.jpgOneStep__Angle_.jpgOneStep__Side_.jpg

 

The Polaroid Originals OneStep+ keeps the same ease of use, reliability, long lasting battery life and powerful flash of the OneStep 2 but adds a whole bunch of new features and creative possibilities. You can do more with analog instant photography than ever before with the new portrait lens and 6 additional creative shooting modes in the Polaroid Originals app, including a full manual mode (when connected via Bluetooth to your smartphone).

 

  • Intuitive point-and-shoot design
  • 2 selectable lenses (Standard, Portrait)
  • Bluetooth connectivity, allowing access to 6 additional creative shooting modes
  • Powerful built-in flash (with override function)
  • Lighten/darken exposure compensation slider
  • 60-day battery life (USB rechargeable)
  • Offers the widest selection of film choices: Compatible with all i-Type and 600 film packs

 

Perfect for: Beginners and professional instant photographers alike. With a simple and intuitive design, the camera retains its ease of use as a point-and-shoot camera, while also offering limitless photographic possibilities using the 6 shooting modes (when paired using the Polaroid Originals app): Remote, Self Timer, Double Exposure, Light Painting, Noise Trigger, and the all-encompassing Manual Mode.

 

2. POLAROID ORIGINALS ONESTEP 2 I-TYPE CAMERA

white-onestep2-polaroid-camera-009003-front.jpg white-onestep2-polaroid-camera-009003-angle.jpg white-onestep2-polaroid-camera-009003-side.jpg

 

Announced in September 2017, on the 80th anniversary of Polaroid, the OneStep 2 continues the legacy of the original OneStep camera but with faster film, a powerful built-in flash and a rechargeable battery.

 

  • Intuitive point-and-shoot design
  • The most affordable camera option
  • Powerful built-in flash (with override function)
  • Lighten/darken exposure compensation slider
  • 60-day battery life (USB rechargeable)
  • Built-in self-timer function
  • Offers the widest selection of film choices: Compatible with all i-Type and 600 film packs.

 

Perfect for: Beginners and aspiring instant photographers alike. With only a few buttons and a simple, intuitive design, it’s got everything you need and nothing that you don’t.

 

3. POLAROID® 600 BOX-TYPE CAMERAS

blue-polaroid-600-camera-round-004710-angle.jpgpolaroid-600-camera-sun660-autofocus-004792-angle.jpgpolaroid-600-camera-impulse-004706-angle.jpg

 

First released in 1981, the 60-series is the camera most people think of when they hear the word “Polaroid”, with a boxy design that made them a pop culture icon.

 

  • Simple, point-and-shoot design that’s fun, quick, and easy-to-use
  • Comes with a built-in automatic flash and (usually) a fixed-focus lens
  • Flash override capability and lighten/darken slider
  • Does not contain a battery (battery is integrated into each 600 film pack)
  • Fitted with a Polaroid Originals film shield to protect new photos from light as they exit the camera
  • Offers a wide selection of film, from classic color and black & white to special edition packs. 

 

Perfect for: Beginners, casual shooters, and fans of special edition film packs. More serious users could consider a step up to the Sun 660 or high-end SLR 680/690 models.

OneStep+ FAQs...

Do mermaids breathe underwater? (The answer is yes.)

The Polaroid OneStep+ is a fully analog camera, just like the original OneStep and the OneStep 2 that followed it. The new OneStep+ works without any fuss. Simply load up a film cartridge, aim the camera, and press the shutter button.

You’ll get the same great photo quality as with the OneStep 2 camera, with the added bonus of selecting the new Portrait lens. The Portrait lens is operated by an analog lever on top of the camera lens and the app is not necessary to take advantage of this flagship feature. Learn more about the new Portrait lens here.

Pairing your OneStep plus camera with the Polaroid Originals app, via Bluetooth functionality is an optional, added feature which will unlock further creative potential for the camera. Learn more about the Polaroid Originals app here.

Sometimes life presents us with difficult decisions. Selecting which lens to use with your OneStep+ camera is not one of those difficult decisions.

The OneStep+ has two lenses: Standard and Portrait.

OSplus-Syndislaps24.jpg

Standard Lens example, photo by Syndislaps

 iType-B_W-WhiteFrame-Harriet_Browse-PortraitMode-004669-02_2000pxH.jpg

 Portrait Lens example, photo by Harriet Browse

The Portrait lens is for when the distance between your camera lens and your subject is between 1 – 3 feet (0.3 – 0.9 meters). Portraits, close-ups, pictures of flowers: basically anything where you want to get close to your subject.

The Standard lens is for every other situation from 3 feet (0.9 meters) to infinity (but not beyond that). Group shots, landscape photos and anytime you aren’t sure, the Standard lens is the one you want.

Try this quick experiment at home: Take a tape measure and measure out the above-mentioned distances to get a sense of how far away they are. Knowing what 1 – 3 feet (0.3 – 0.9 meters) looks like through the viewfinder will help make your decision-making process quicker and more sure. 

iType-Color-WhiteFrame-James_Tinelly-004668.jpg
Getting a general sense of what 1 – 3 feet (0.3 – 0.9 meters) looks and feels like will make your lens selection a natural and intuitive process.
Photo by James Tinnelly.


Pro tip:
 fixed-focus lenses always have a ‘sweet spot’, meaning a subject-to-lens distance where they are at their sharpest. The Portrait lens has a sweet spot when your subject is exactly 2 feet (0.6 meters) away. The Standard lens also has a sweet spot, at approximately 5 feet (1.6 meters),  though you would be hard pressed to notice it on the Standard lens as basically everything is sharp when shooting with it. 

Unsure exactly which camera model you’re holding in your hands?

 

We’ve launched a handful of new cameras in the past couple of years, so we don’t blame you if you weren’t able to keep up. Besides examining the camera, or reading the model name, the easiest way to know which model of camera you have is to open the film door and read the serial number.

 

The serial number can be found on a sticker inside the film door, underneath the bar code. The first four numbers tell you which camera model you have, as per the table below:

 

9018 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Coral Camera

9017 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Stranger Things Edition Camera

9016 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Summer Blues Camera

9015 – Polaroid Originals OneStep+ White

9010 – Polaroid Originals OneStep+ Black

9009 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (graphite)

9008 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (white)

9007 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (mint)

9003 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 (white)

9002 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 (graphite)

9001 – Impossible I-1

If your android device is not pairing with your OneStep+ camera, please try to clear the Bluetooth cache.

  1. Open device Settings
  2. Go to the “Apps & Notifications”
  3. Click “See all apps”
  4. Click “More” button (seen as three vertical dots) in the top right corner of your screen and select Show system
  5. Select Bluetooth from the list
  6. Click Storage & Cache
  7. Click Clear storage button and agree to app data deleting
  8. Also, restarting your phone after clearing the cache might help

Now you should be able to pair your camera to the mobile device.

The OneStep+ has everything that the OneStep 2 camera has, plus more features. The OneStep+ is still a great point-and-shoot camera but with the potential for greater creativity and experimentation.

 

The two main differences are that the OneStep+ has two lenses. That means you have a Portrait lens, allowing you to get closer to your subject and create sharp macro photography with a minimum focus distance of just 30cm.

 

The second big difference is that the OneStep+ connects with your smartphone (via the Polaroid Originals app) unlocking a world of creative possibilities for your instant photography.

 

Connect your OneStep+ to the Polaroid Originals app to access 6 new creative modes:

 

  • Remote
    • Turns your phone into a remote shutter trigger for your camera to shoot from a distance.

 

  • Self Timer
    • Lets you set up a countdown of up to 12 seconds before your camera’s shutter triggers.

 

  • Double Exposure
    • Enables you to shoot two images on a single Polaroid photo to create unique and unpredictable effects. Learn more, here.

 

  • Light Painting
    • Lets you use your camera flash to paint lines or light up objects during a long exposure.

 

  • Noise Trigger
    • Allows you to set a volume level and then trigger the shutter by making a loud noise!

 

  • Manual Mode
    • Gives you full control over aperture, shutter speed, flash strength and even the number of exposures.

OneStep2 FAQs...

If you’re having trouble with your Polaroid OneStep 2 – like finding that your subject isn’t as centered as you thought, or that the photo hasn’t come out quite as it looked through the viewfinder, here’s some guidelines on how to get the best results.

Note that this article is specifically for the OneStep 2 without a viewfinder (as pictured below).

There are two main things to look out for when framing a photo with the OneStep 2: (i) holding the camera properly, and (ii) accounting for parallax (the difference between the position of an object as it appears to you, and as it appears through the camera’s lens).

 

1. How to hold the OneStep 2

Make sure you are holding the camera so it is parallel to the floor, i.e. don’t tilt it side-to-side or front-to-back.

 

Right-Eye-RV.jpg  Right-Eye-False-RV.jpg
Correct
Camera is level
Eye is 5 cm from viewfinder
 Incorrect
Camera is tilted upwards
Eye is too close to viewfinder

An easy trick to ensure that you are holding the camera parallel to the ground is to start by holding it one foot away from your eye, then slowly draw it towards your eye, keeping the camera level…

Setup-2.jpg  Setup.jpg  Right-Eye-LV.jpg
The back of the camera body should rest on your cheek, with 2″ (5 cm) between your eye and the viewfinder.

 

2. Accounting for Parallax

The OneStep 2 uses a traditional viewfinder located slightly above and to the right of the camera’s lens. This means that what you see through the viewfinder is from a different perspective than what the lens is seeing. As a result, you’ll need to adjust your aim to compose your shot correctly.

This is especially true when shooting subjects that are closer than 4 feet (1.2 meters) away, such as portraits. When taking a photo of something close-up, it’s a good rule of thumb to adjust your aim slightly downwards and to the right. Again: line up your shot, and then adjust by aiming a little downwards and a little to the right.

Try this quick experiment at home:

This issue of perspective is commonly called “parallax”, and can be easily recreated at home to help you better understand this concept. Start by holding out your index finger 2 inches (5 cm) away from your face. Close one eye at a time, and pay attention to your finger. You should notice your finger “shifting” position depending on which eye you’re looking with, as each eye is in a slightly different position when looking at your finger. The same thing is happening with your camera’s viewfinder and lens.

Sometimes excess developer paste from photos may build up on the camera’s rollers, affecting the camera’s performance and causing photos to show unwanted imperfections. The OneStep 2 has a built-in roller cleaning mode to help with this issue.

Take a peek at the video below or just follow the step by step instructions.

To clean the rollers of your OneStep 2 just follow these steps:

  1. Turn the camera off.
  2. Open the film door.
  3. Hold the flash override button and press the shutter button.
  4. The camera is now in roller cleaning mode.
  5. Using a damp cloth or cotton swab, gently clean the rollers.
  6. Press the shutter button to incrementally advance roller positions.
  7. Once both rollers are clean on all sides, close the film door.
  8. Rollers will automatically return to their correct position.
  1. My OneStep 2 won’t eject my photo/darkslide

    • Make sure that your OneStep 2 camera is charged: The camera’s flash charge LED will blink red if it doesn’t have enough charge to operate. If this is the case, you should recharge your camera before using it again.

    • Make sure you still have film in your camera: to check, slide the power switch off and on. The remaining film counter LEDs will indicate how many shots you have left in the film pack. If the LEDs flash rapidly when the the camera turns on again, this means that there are no shots left in the film pack, or that no film pack is inserted.
  2. The flash doesn’t fire when I take a photo

    • When taking photos make sure you aren’t accidentally pressing the flash override button, located on the camera’s back panel.


  3. My photo turned out slightly too dark

    • We strongly recommend that you always shoot with flash when shooting indoors, as well as outside at night-time, at dusk and on cloudy days with low light conditions. Make sure you are not shooting towards the sun; the OneStep 2 meters the average light level it sees.
    • When shooting toward sunlight, the excessive light may cause the camera to over-compensate when exposing the image, creating an image that is too dark to expose your subject properly. Move the lighten/darken switch on the right side of the lens barrel to the plus/lighten position for a brighter image.
  4. My photo turned out blurry or fuzzy

    • When shooting, make sure to hold the camera steady, especially in low light conditions, and make sure you have a strong light source to illuminate your shot. We strongly recommend that you always shoot with flash when shooting indoors, as well as outside at night-time, at dusk and on cloudy days with low light conditions. You can also use a tripod to give your camera a stable base.
    • – Make sure you are not too close to your subject when taking photos. In order to avoid blurry or out-of-focus photos, you should shoot from at least 2ft (60 cm) away from your subject.

The newly-released OneStep 2 Viewfinder is an update to the OneStep 2 which improves on the camera’s original design with a new and improved viewfinder barrel. This updated viewfinder model, designed based on user feedback and testing, makes aiming and framing with the camera a more intuitive experience.

white-onestep2-vf-polaroid-camera-009008-2ndangle.jpgwhite-onestep2-vf-polaroid-camera-009008-front.jpgwhite-onestep2-vf-polaroid-camera-009008-side.jpg

 

The rest of the camera is identical to the original OneStep 2 which was released in September 2017 – same camera, just with a longer viewfinder barrel, so if you’re thinking of upgrading for the latest and greatest, keep that in mind.

If you have the first version of the OneStep 2 and are struggling to create well composed photos, we’ve got an article that will help you out here: Aiming and Framing with the OneStep 2.

The OneStep 2 works with all Polaroid Originals i-Type and 600 type film packs. We recommend using i-Type film as it is optimized for use with the OneStep 2.

Watch the below video explaining film formats: 

 

Alternatively you can download our visual compatibility chart, below:

Here’s how to take your first photos with the Polaroid OneStep 2.  You can follow along with the video below or check out the detailed instructions below.

    1. Turn the camera on/off

      To turn the camera on, slide the power switch into the ON position (down). The flash charging LED on the back panel will start blinking to charge the flash, and the remaining film counter on the top of the camera will light up to indicate that the camera is switched on. To turn the camera off again, return the power switch to the OFF position.

    2. Load the film

      Slide the film door latch to open the film door. Push the film cassette all the way in, with the film’s darkslide facing up.

      Note: Please check individual film packaging for development time, handling and storage details.

    3. Close film door

      When you close the film door, the darkslide will eject from the camera automatically, underneath the film shield. The plastic film shield is designed to protect images from light as they develop — it should not be removed. Take the darkslide out from under the film shield and let the film shield roll back up. If the darkslide has not ejected, remove the film pack and re-insert it, making sure it is pushed all the way to the back of the camera.

    4. Set the Flash & Lighten/Darken

      Flash: The camera flash will trigger by default when you shoot with the OneStep 2. To shoot with out the flash, press and hold the flash override button on the back panel as you press the shutter button.

      Warning: Shooting without flash will reduce camera performance and picture quality in most lighting situations except brightly-lit, sunny environments. We recommend always shooting with flash.

      Lighten/Darken: Use the lighten/darken switch on the right side of the lens barrel to adjust the exposure of your shot. To get a brighter photo, move the lighten/darken switch right to the plus/lighten position. For a darker photo, move the lighten/darken switch left to the minus/darken position. These two settings correspond to different Exposure Values (EV). The camera’s Exposure Values are +½ EV (when you move the switch to plus/lighten) and -½ EV (when you move the switch to minus/darken).

    5. Using the viewfinder:

      The OneStep 2 uses a traditional view finder located on the right side of the lens barrel. The viewfinder is most accurate when you align your right eye with the space behind the viewfinder, resting your cheek on the slope of the camera body.

      Note: Remember that the viewfinder sits slightly above and to the right of the camera’s lens — above and to the left from your perspective when shooting — so you will need to adjust your aim to compose your shot correctly when shooting at distances of 1.2 meters or less. Learn more about aiming and framing with the OneStep 2 in this article.

    6. Compose your photo:

      To avoid a blurry photo, make sure you are at least 60cm (2 feet) away from your subject when you take the picture. For the best results, always try to shoot with your light source behind you.

    7. Take the photo: 

      Press the shutter button all the way in to take the photo. The photo will be ejected from the slot at the front of the camera as soon as you let go of the shutter button. It will be shielded from the light by the film shield, and will be held in place until you are ready to remove it.

    8. Remove and shield the photo

      Remove the photo from beneath the film shield and let the film shield roll back into the camera. Place the photo face down to continue shielding it from light as it develops.

Unsure exactly which camera model you’re holding in your hands?

 

We’ve launched a handful of new cameras in the past couple of years, so we don’t blame you if you weren’t able to keep up. Besides examining the camera, or reading the model name, the easiest way to know which model of camera you have is to open the film door and read the serial number.

 

The serial number can be found on a sticker inside the film door, underneath the bar code. The first four numbers tell you which camera model you have, as per the table below:

 

9018 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Coral Camera

9017 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Stranger Things Edition Camera

9016 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Summer Blues Camera

9015 – Polaroid Originals OneStep+ White

9010 – Polaroid Originals OneStep+ Black

9009 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (graphite)

9008 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (white)

9007 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 Viewfinder (mint)

9003 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 (white)

9002 – Polaroid Originals OneStep 2 (graphite)

9001 – Impossible I-1

The OneStep+ has everything that the OneStep 2 camera has, plus more features. The OneStep+ is still a great point-and-shoot camera but with the potential for greater creativity and experimentation.

 

The two main differences are that the OneStep+ has two lenses. That means you have a Portrait lens, allowing you to get closer to your subject and create sharp macro photography with a minimum focus distance of just 30cm.

 

The second big difference is that the OneStep+ connects with your smartphone (via the Polaroid Originals app) unlocking a world of creative possibilities for your instant photography.

 

Connect your OneStep+ to the Polaroid Originals app to access 6 new creative modes:

 

  • Remote
    • Turns your phone into a remote shutter trigger for your camera to shoot from a distance.

 

  • Self Timer
    • Lets you set up a countdown of up to 12 seconds before your camera’s shutter triggers.

 

  • Double Exposure
    • Enables you to shoot two images on a single Polaroid photo to create unique and unpredictable effects. Learn more, here.

 

  • Light Painting
    • Lets you use your camera flash to paint lines or light up objects during a long exposure.

 

  • Noise Trigger
    • Allows you to set a volume level and then trigger the shutter by making a loud noise!

 

  • Manual Mode
    • Gives you full control over aperture, shutter speed, flash strength and even the number of exposures.

Other Polaroid Products FAQs...

olaroid Originals is a new brand dedicated specifically to analog instant photography.

 

The overarching Polaroid brand, however, encompasses a wide range of consumer electronic products, from televisions to ZINK technology digital cameras, POP & SNAP  – you name it.

 

If you have a Polaroid branded TV or Tablet, for all support please contact:

 

Tempo Australia
1300 886 649
info@tempo.org

 

For a Polaroid branded camera, printer or accessory you can contact us direct using the below support page:

 

Polaroid Support.

 

Our support team will be happy to help you out with any issues you are having.

Polaroid Lab FAQs...

To turn ON, press the platform release button on the right side. The phone platform will automatically lift to ‘ready’ position. The rainbow LED will light up to indicate the Lab is on.

To turn off, gently press the phone platform back into the unit. The Lab will turn itself off automatically after several minutes of inactivity. Replace the cover whenever the Lab is not in use.

The Polaroid Lab works with all Polaroid Originals i-Type and 600 type film, available in our classic white frame or Polaroid special editions.

Once you got your Lab and you followed step by step how to start, you choose the picture you want to expose on the Polaroid Lab.

You have selected the picture from your gallery using the Polaroid App. Once you are on the preview, if you tap on the picture inside the frame you can decide, for example, to give more importance to a specific subject or to a part of the picture itself, zoom-in or zoom-out. 

If you’re satisfied with the result you can tap the bottom right arrow and proceed to expose the picture on the Lab (if you’re curious to know more, see how does the Polaroid Lab works).

So, you’ve opened your Polaroid Lab and it’s time to get started making photos!

Please follow the below steps to expose your first image:

1.  Turn on the Polaroid Lab by pressing the ON button. The tower will extend and the rainbow lights up. 

Polaroid_Lab_on.jpg

2.  Make sure the Polaroid Lab is fully charged (Check the LEDs on the back).

Polaroid_Lab_Battery_Status.jpg

 

3. Using the Polaroid Originals app, select the Polaroid Lab section from the bottom menu.

4. In the app, you’ll see the classic Polaroid frame with “Choose photo” in the centre. Select “Choose photo” and from your camera roll, select your photo to expose and crop the image to your liking. (At the top of the phone screen, make sure to select the film type you are using, and make any adjustments to the exposure if you’d like).

5. Once your photo is ready, click the arrow on the lower right corner of the screen.

6. Put the phone face-down on the cradle, lining up the two grey circles on the phone screen with the two touch points on the Polaroid Lab’s cradle.

7. The Polaroid Originals logo LED lights will flash a few times and then remain solid. You can then press the red shutter button on the Lab and your photo will eject and begin developing.

8. Turn the Polaroid Lab off by pressing the platform down until you hear a click sound. The Lab is switched off when the platform is down and the rainbow lights are off (alternatively, the Lab will turn itself off automatically after several minutes of inactivity).

 Polaroid_Lab_switch_off.jpg             Polaroid_Lab_off.jpg

If you experience any troubles following the steps above, first ensure that:

– Your phone’s protective case is removed from your phone
– Your phone is lined up on the cradle correctly
– Your phone’s operating system is up to date
– The Polaroid Originals app is up to date (download the app from the App Store or Google Play.)
– Your device is compatible with the Polaroid Lab (read more about the compatible devices)

 

Do you need more details?

Download the User Manual.

Download the Quick Start Guide.

 

Still need help? Contact our customer service team using using this form and we can figure this out with you.

 

Polaroid Originals Film FAQs...

  1. Our 8×10 film is integral film

    Our 8×10 film is different from the original Polaroid 8×10 film. It is an integral film, meaning that in normal use the positive and negative stay together and are not peeled apart. This integral film will work with any 8×10 camera equipped to accept a Polaroid film holder. Additionally you will need a Polaroid 8×10 processor. We recommend using an electrically powered processor for more consistent results. If you use the hand crank function of the processor, turn the handle quickly and smoothly.

  2. Keep negative and positive batches together

    Negative and positive frame batches can vary from batch to batch. Each box of film contains a positive and a negative which are a photographic match. The photographic batch number is visible on the negative frame on the black tab. On the positive the photographic batch number is visible on silver mask near the trap.The batch number consists of one letter and 3 digits. For example C001 would mean photographic batch 001 of colour film and similarly B001 would mean photographic batch 001 of B&W film. The batch number of a positive and negative that are processed together should be identical.

  3. Refrigerate your film until use

    We recommend refrigerating the film until use, but do not freeze. Before use allow the film to adjust to room temperature for at least one hour. The film works best at temperatures around room temperature. When shooting at deviating temperatures, try to process your images at a temperature close to room temperature. Use the film within 12 months of the production date. See stamp on the film carton sticker. Learn more on how to store Polaroid Originals film in this article.

     

  4. Intended for ASA 640, though this may vary

    The film is intended for ASA640. Film sensitivity may vary. Allow +/- 1/3 stop. Suitable for daylight or Xenon flash exposure. Colour and ASA can vary in response to temperature and different ambient light sources. In direct sunlight do not pull off the protective envelope until you are about to shoot.

     

  5. Bear in mind images are mirrored

    In most cases the images obtained with this film will be the mirror image of the original. For example the text will be reversed. If readable text is important to your image, we recommend trying to shoot via a mirror or using an image transparency or image lifting technique to revert the image to its original orientation.

     

  6. Caution: avoid contact with the film paste

    Some developing paste may seep from the edges of the photo. This paste is a caustic substance! Avoid contact with skin, eyes or mouth. If you get paste on your skin, eyes or mouth, wipe if off immediately, flush with fresh water to avoid an alkali burn and consult a doctor. Avoid contact with the paste by holding the photo by the black tab and refraining from touching the edges. The paste can also be wiped off with a moist tissue. Keep discarded materials and paste away from children, animals, clothing and furniture.

  7. Development

    We recommend letting your photo develop in the processor for approximately 5 minutes. Photos will appear as a light blue initially and will remain so during most of the development time. This is normal. B&W images will take 5-10 minutes to develop. Color images will take between 30-40 minutes to develop. Handle with care during development. Do not shake or bend the photo.

  8. Dry your photos thoroughly

    A newly processed 8×10 photo consists of a layer of wet developing

    paste sandwiched between a negative and a transparent sheet. In this configuration 8×10 photos can take between 3 to 4 weeks to dry completely.

    General recommendations:

    • Do not stack the photos when they are still fresh and wet.
    • Maintain sufficient airspace around the images when drying
    • Dry down prints in a cool, moderate to low humidity environment

     

  9. Keep the processor’s rollers clean

    Check and clean your processor‘s rollers between prints. Any dirt or residue left on the rollers may cause an imprint on the image.

  10. Technical specifcations

    • Film speed: ASA 640 +/- 1/3 stop.
    • Exposures: 10 exposures per box.
    • Development time: B&W film images will take 5-10 minutes to develop. Color film images will take between 30-40 minutes to develop.
    • Dimensions: Format 8“x10“. Image area 7.5“ x 9.35“ (19 x 24 cm).
    • Finish: Glossy.
    • Compatible hardware: 8×10 Polaroid processor and any camera .equipped to accept an 8×10 Polaroid film holder.
    • Additional equipment needed: Polaroid 8×10 Processor and film holder.

Unfortunately, we can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!

Please carefully dispose of your empty film cartridges as per the law in your local area. Keep in mind that our film packs for vintage Polaroid cameras (600, SX-70 and Spectra) contain a lithium-ion battery inside the film pack.

This may mean that you need to dispose of the plastic cassette, the metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. If this is the case for you, then please follow our guide on how to safely dismantle and separate your empty film cartridge below.

Be sure to tape over the silver electrical contacts on the battery with duct tape (or similar) to prevent dangerous electrical conductivity.

 

 

Here are the instructions to recycle your empty Polaroid film pack:

  1. Crush the opening of the film pack (where the film comes out) with your thumbs to create a larger opening

  2. Remove the spring – carefully! Some of the edges are pretty sharp.

  3. Remove the battery – and cover the electrical contacts with tape immediately.

  4. Dispose of the plastic cassette, metal spring and lithium-ion battery separately.

    Note: You can dispose of batteries in most stores that sell them, as well as big box stores, supermarkets, town halls, schools and libraries. Your local government authority will have information available to help find the best place for you.

 

If you are at all uncertain about this process, please get in touch with our Customer Support team directly and, we’ll guide you through the dismantling procedure safely.

The one-of-a-kind analog nature of Polaroid photography is part of what makes the medium so magical, but sometimes it’d be nice to share your latest selfie with your mom back home or post a picture up on your Facebook profile. We’re all about sharing moments here, and sometimes creating a digital copy of your instant photo is the best option – after all, email is a little bit faster than snail mail these days.

So, what’s the best way to scan your Polaroid pictures? Speed, photo quality and pesky reflections are all considerations. Here’s an overview of some of the most common methods Polaroid photographers use to make digital copies of their pictures, and the pros and cons of each method.

 

  1. Smartphone & app-based scanning
  2. Flatbed scanning
  3. Sheetfed scanning
  4. Digital camera scanning


1. Smartphone & app-based scanning

Using your smartphone to take photos of your photos is the most convenient option and requires the least amount of specialized technology. While using your favorite camera app is a simple option, you’ll often end up with distracting reflections. Changing your camera angle might help, but then you can have perspective problems where the photo isn’t perfectly square. Annoying, right?

Dedicated photo scanning apps are a dime a dozen these days, but some stand out from the pack. We recommend our own Polaroid Originals app which takes care of both reflections and perspective issues for you.

ScanningFAQ-Illustrations02-01_crop.jpg img_apple_app_store.svg
en_badge_web_generic.png


2. Flatbed scanning

If getting the highest quality scans possible is your goal with the intention of archiving, sharing or printing, a flatbed scanner is hands-down the best option. The downside is that high-end models can cost a pretty penny, and the learning curve is a bit more involved. The actual scanning process is slow and, naturally, the scanner itself will take up some of your precious desk space.

ScanningFAQ-Illustrations02-02_crop.jpg

You’ll also likely want to buy (or make) a scanning adapter to get the best results from your scanner – for more information on why, read our article about Newton’s rings here.

But when it comes to getting the highest quality scans possible, flatbed scanners are an excellent option for aspiring enthusiasts and professional photographers alike.


3. Sheetfed scanning

Sheetfed scanners like the Doxie scanner are simple, portable scanning machines. You simply feed your photo into one end and it passes right through, and out the other side. With this method, you get a digital copy of your picture that’s high-quality, free from reflections and requires very little know-how. The downside is that sheetfed scanners aren’t the cheapest option out there, do not offer much in the way of customisation and they can sometimes create issues with horizontal lines if you don’t feed your picture into the scanner perfectly straight.

ScanningFAQ-Illustrations02-03_crop.jpg

 

If you have a little bit of coin to spend on your scanning setup, but don’t want to go too far down the rabbit-hole, something like a sheetfed scanner might work for you as one of the quicker scanning options available.


4. Digital camera ‘scanning’

Similar to using the camera app in your smartphone, using a higher resolution digital camera (like a DSLR) to make digital copies of your photos is a cheap and easy option, assuming you already have a digital camera somewhere. The downside is trying to eliminate glare while maintaining correct perspective. If you’ve got a 2-3 point studio lighting system available, this method can yield very high resolution results with a bit of playing around with the lighting angles. If not, look to create a very diffuse lighting environment (such as a room with many windows on a cloudy day), and always shoot with a tripod.

ScanningFAQ-Illustrations02-04_crop.jpg

Wait a minute, is it possible to scan the negative directly?

Unfortunately, no.

Polaroid film negatives are completely integrated into the film itself. Even if you were to remove the negative using scissors and a little know-how, you’d discover that the negative is actually opaque and not translucent. As a result, light isn’t able to passed through like a traditional film negative, so scanning simply isn’t possible with Polaroid photo negatives.

X-ray machines affect your film. It’s best to keep it in your carry-on, but to ask for a hand-check instead. 

Film in checked-in luggage will be most likely affected. 

In the past, the carry-on x-ray scanners did not damage the film. But since the end of 2019, new scanners are being installed in certain airports. These scanners damage the film as they do a 360° scan using a higher radiation dose. Therefore, we recommend having the film hand-checked. This will guarantee that the film is not damaged by the radiation. 

Damaged film typically shows a pinkish hue and a washed-out, foggy look throughout the photo. Great, if you’re a fan of all things pink, but not so much for everyone else. 

A note about exposed film (film you’ve already exposed) is completely unaffected by x-rays, so it will be fine in any baggage. 

Summertime is the best time for shooting Polaroid Originals film: longer days with plenty of natural light, sun-drenched afternoons at the beach, and road trips with friends. With one arm out the window, and all our worries somewhere in the rear-view mirror, it can be easy to forget that Polaroid Originals film is a bit more sensitive to the heat than we are. By taking care to keep your film and camera cool, you can be sure you’ll get better and more consistent results.

 

When Polaroid pictures develop, several different reactions happen, and they need to occur in a well-timed fashion for the best results. Chemical reactions are temperature-dependent, and our film is designed to work best between 55-82 °F (13-28 °C). Outside of this range, you’ll still get a result, but you may notice some unusual photo characteristics. Photos that have been exposed to high temperatures during development may be faded and orange-toned. Here are some sample photos where the ambient temperature was above 82 °F (28 °C)

NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_024_edit2.jpg

photo Deborah Santarpia
Note: red/yellow color cast, slight over-exposure

 NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_026_edit.jpg

 photo Nigel Willox
 Note: drastically reduced contrast

Here are some tips to get you through the dog days of summer with more consistent, true-to-life results:

  • Store your film cool prior to shooting
  • Let your film develop in a cool environment
    • Inside your beach cooler, or under a cold beverage are convenient options – just make sure to keep the developing photo dry!
  • Under-expose your photo
  • Use a yellow filter (applies to black and white film only)
    • Using a yellow filter generally creates higher contrast black and white photos

Sometimes, you may find that your photo does not eject from the camera after you take a picture, or the protective black darkslide doesn’t eject when you put a new pack of film in your camera. This can be caused by one or more of the following:

  • Weak battery in the film pack or camera
  • The camera itself is defective
  • Corroded battery contacts on the film pack or camera

See below for potential causes and tips on how you can avoid ejection issues for each:

Weak battery in the film pack or camera

Please note that the flash and the ejection of the photo are triggered by the battery of either the camera (for newer i-Type cameras) or the film pack (for vintage cameras). If you leave your camera open for a long time, the battery will be gradually drained. Make sure to close or turn off your camera whenever you aren’t using it, to prevent the flash from constantly charging and draining your camera’s or film pack’s battery.

The camera itself may be defective

If you put a pack of film in your camera and you hear the camera respond with a motor noise but nothing comes out, try to re-insert the pack of film. If that still doesn’t work, try inserting a different pack of film. If the camera won’t eject the darkslide or photos for either pack, then your camera is defective and will need to be repaired. Basically, the part inside the camera that pushes each photo forward isn’t working.

Corroded battery contacts on the film pack or camera

Older Polaroid cameras may have corroded or soiled battery contacts, preventing them from connecting with the battery properly. The contacts in the camera are two copper springs that extend from the bottom of the film compartment. You can either try to clean them with a flat, slim object (such as a flathead screwdriver) or you simply remove and reinsert the film cassette several times, to scratch possible oxidation and corrosion off of the contacts.

Below is a list of the 11 most commonly seen film issues when shooting with Polaroid Originals film. Scroll through the examples, find the example photos that most show the issue you are experiencing, and click on the link below it to learn more about it and how you can prevent it in the future.

 

wFilm-Issue---Blur-Ex1-_NW_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Blur-Ex2-_NW_.jpg

Blurry / Out-of focus

 

wFilm-Issue---Overexposed-Ex1-_NW_.jpg

Too Light / Faint / Overexposed

 

wFilm-Issue---Underexposed-Ex2-_MS_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Underexposed-Ex2-_IC_.jpg

Too Dark / Underexposed

 

wFilm-Issue---Roller-Dots-Ex2-_IC_.jpg WFilm-Issue---Roller-Dots-Ex1-_IC_.jpg

Large Repeating Dots

 

wFilm-Issue---Opacification-Fail-Ex2-_IC_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Opacification-Fail-Ex3-_IC_.jpg

Blue Marks (Opacification Failure)

 

wFilm-Issue---Shutter-Fail-Ex2-_NW_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Shutter-Fail-Ex1.jpg

Completely Black or Completely White

 

wFilm-Issue---U-break-Ex2-_LJ_.jpg wFilm-Issue---U-break-Ex1-_IC_.jpg

Undeveloped Patches (U/V-break)

 

wFilm-Issue---Verical-Stripe-Ex1-_IC_.jpg wFilm-Issue---Vertical-Stripe-Ex2-_NW_.jpg

Vertical Stripes

 PolaScan_coldweather2_NLW.jpg PolaScan_coldweather_NLW.jpg

Blue (Cold) Color Cast

NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_028_final.jpg itype-Peter_Polar_029_final.jpg

Pink / Orange Color Cast

NLW_Pola_BRLN_0718_027_edit.jpg img091__1__edit.jpg

Low Contrast

Original Polaroid integral film and the current Polaroid Originals integral film are identical in their size and dimensions. Well, actually, Polaroid Originals film is a little thicker, but that’s another story.

Polaroid Originals SX-70, 600 and i-Type film measures exactly 3.108 × 3.024 inches (photo area) and 4.233 x 3.483 inches (total area). That’s 7.894 x 7.6801 cm (photo area) and 10.752 x 8.847 cm (total area). 

Polaroid Originals Spectra/Image film is wider than it is tall, and measures exactly 2.890 x 3.574 inches (photo area) and 4.051 x 3.996 inches (total area). That’s 7.341 x 9.078 cm (photo area) and 10.290 x 10.150 cm (total area).  

 

FAQpage-FilmDimensions.jpg

 

 

Read more about what film to use with Polaroid and Polaroid Originals cameras

Polaroid Originals film is different from the Polaroid film of the past. Much of the chemistry and components used by Polaroid(™) are no longer available, so we had to reinvent the film using entirely new materials and a new formula. Needless to say, it wasn’t easy.

One downside of this is that Polaroid Originals film sheets are slightly thicker than the old Polaroid(™) film sheets. As a result, it’s not possible to fit 10 photos in the film cartridge, and we obviously can’t change the size of the film cartridge – because then it wouldn’t fit in the camera. The only solution was to put 8 film sheets in each pack, instead of 10.

This means that the frame counter on your Polaroid(™) camera will always be off by 2. Whenever you insert a new pack of film into your camera, the frame counter will reset to 10 automatically, but this actually means you have 8 photos left. When the frame counter shows 2, it means you’ve used all the photos in your pack.

FAQpage-exploded-diagram-2.jpg

 

Each Polaroid Originals photo is composed of:

  • A light-sensitive negative – a film base coated with layers of silver halide grains, image dyes and inter-layers
  • A transparent cover sheet – this lets the image be exposed to the negative, and keeps all the chemicals safely inside the film
  • A thin foil pod – located at the bottom of each frame, containing enough reagent to develop your picture

We know sometimes you start one pack of film, but then you see something that would be perfect with a different film, but your pack isn’t done yet, or maybe you want to take the same film and put it in a different camera. Either way, the concern is the same.

In short, yes you can change film packs mid-way and not ruin your film, there’s just a few key things to remember.

First, keep and carry dark slides. If you don’t already carry them to use for shielding, this is a good habit to start. The dark slide is the key to switching packs. Also, if you encounter a camera malfunction, you can use the dark slide to remove your pack with film in it and put an empty in to help troubleshoot your camera without wasting film.

Second, note ambient light. Follow the steps in our video on how to insert the dark slide to put it over the top frame of film, and remember to do this in subdued light. The front of the pack isn’t light tight and especially with the camera door open. If you insert a dark slide in too much light you will flash some of the film, at least on the top frame.

Lastly, even after you’ve taken the pack out and have the dark slide in place, be mindful of light leaks and torn dark slides. Make sure you cover the back corner of the pack so there isn’t a light leak there, and make sure the same corner on the dark slide isn’t torn. This could prevent it from ejecting properly when putting the pack back into a camera.

Also note this trick is a little harder, though not impossible, with Spectra packs because they have a slightly different design.

Remember these tips and follow the instructions in the video and you should be able to capture the moments you want with the right film or camera.

Keep your rollers clean.

After the film pack is inserted into the camera, the darkslide – a piece of card protecting your film from light – is automatically ejected, uncovering the top sheet of film and positioning the film for exposure.

When you take a photo, the camera’s exposure control system determines the correct combination of aperture, shutter speed and (in cameras that have them) flash to get the best photo.

During exposure, the shutter opens, projecting an image through the transparent film cover sheet, creating a latent image on the silver halide emulsion in the negative.

After the shutter closes, the photo is ejected out of the film pack, passing between two rollers. These rollers rupture a chemistry pod filled with reagent at the bottom of the film frame, spreading the reagent evenly across the negative.

Contained within the reagent compound are white pigment, opacifying dyes, alkali, water and polymeric thickener and other photographically active materials.

Once it’s ejected from the camera, the exposed photo begins the development process. During development, instant film goes through essentially the same chemical process as conventional wet-process photographic development. The difference with instant print film is that the chemical process all happens automatically, with a single solution.

In black and white images, the development process involves the migration of silver compounds that have not been exposed to light on the negative sheet, to a separate receptor sheet. Color imaging involves a similar migration, but uses dyes from at least three different layers. In color photography the primary colors are red, blue, and green. Their complements are cyan, yellow, and magenta, in that order.

Polaroid Originals’ black & white film currently has a development time of approximately 5-7 minutes, while our color film develops in approximately 15 minutes, but we’re constantly working on creating the next generation of film, with faster development times, quicker emergence and sharper images.

Please click here for further support or alternatively email us at polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

To load a pack of film in an Impossible or Polaroid camera, slide the film door latch to open the film door. Push the film cassette all the way in, with darkslide up and plastic base at the bottom.

 

When you close the film door, the darkslide will eject from the camera automatically, underneath the Film Shield. The plastic Film Shield is designed to protect images from light as they develop – it should not be removed. Take the darkslide out from under the Film Shield and let the Film Shield roll back up. If the darkslide has not ejected, take out the film pack and re-insert it, making sure it is pushed all the way to the back of the camera.

 

If you’re still unsure, watch Peter and Heinz do it below:

 

Here’s a detailed guide to getting the best results with Polaroid Originals film. Check the list of contents below for specific points, or have a read through to get the whole picture.

 

  1. Proper storage (undeveloped/unexposed film)
  2. Expiration dates
  3. Camera roller maintenance
  4. Exposure compensation
  5. Temperature
  6. Shield it!
  7. Proper storage (developed film)
  8. Recycling your film cartridges

 

 1. PROPER STORAGE (UNDEVELOPED / UNEXPOSED FILM)

 

Proper storage of Polaroid Originals film will ensure that the film chemistry remains stable and that your photos achieve and retain the best color, contrast and detail for as long as possible.

Polaroid Original film packs should be stored in their unopened, sealed packaging in a cool and dry environment. We recommend storing our film flat inside a fridge at a constant temperature between 4 – 18°C / 41 – 65°F. Do not freeze your film packs! This will damage the chemistry and your film will not perform properly when used.

Our film will not perform as desired at cooler temperatures. Therefore, it must be allowed to return to room temperature before use. We recommend allowing at least 1 hour to allow your film to return to ambient temperature before shooting.

 

Full article: How to store Polaroid film

 

2. EXPIRATION DATES

 

All Polaroid Original film should be used within 12 months of production date for best results (you can find the production date stamped on the bottom of each film package).

Chemical changes occur as our film ages, and this will eventually affect how well your film performs. While proper storage will mitigate the effects of chemical ageing, the expiration date marks the point in this process after which it is unlikely that the film will produce images that meet our standards of quality. You will still get some variety of result from expired film, but there may be artefacts or defects for which we are unable to accept warranty claims.

 

3. CAMERA ROLLER MAINTENANCE

 

In order to spread the chemistry between the negative and positive part of the photo, the picture goes through two rollers found inside the film door of your camera. If they are dirty, the chemistry will not be spread evenly. This is the most common source of undesirable film defects.


Therefore, you should regularly check that the rollers of your camera are clean. They are accessible by opening the film door compartment of the camera, and can be easily cleaned with a soft cloth, dampened with clean water. We recommend checking the rollers of your camera before inserting each pack of film, and cleaning them regularly – even when they look clean to the naked eye.

 

 Full article: How to clean your camera rollers

 

4. EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

 

Most Polaroid Originals film types have the correct/original ASA and do not require exposure compensation. This list includes: i-Type, 600, Spectra, and 8×10 Film.

 

The exception is, of course, the SX-70. Polaroid Originals’ current generation of SX-70 film has a slightly higher ASA/ISO than its traditional Polaroid counterpart. This means that our film is more sensitive to light, or “faster”. We recommend that you adjust the exposure wheel or slide on your Polaroid camera 1/3 towards the darken setting when shooting in bright, well-lit conditions.

 

If you are shooting using your camera’s built-in flash, make sure that the lighten/darken wheel or slider of your camera is adjusted to the middle position. Keep in mind that the built-in flash on Polaroid cameras is usually only effective in a range of 1 – 2.5 meters (3.3 – 8.2 ft).

 

Full article: Exposure Compensation on your Polaroid Camera

 

5. TEMPERATURE

 

Polaroid Originals film works best in temperatures between 13 – 28°C (55 – 82°F). Temperatures significantly outside of that range can affect Polaroid Originals instant film in terms of development time and colour.

 

Shooting in the cold (< 13°C):

 

Below 13°C (55°F), photos tend to emerge over-exposed, lacking colour contrast and with a cyan (blue) tint. When shooting at lower temperatures, let your images develop in the inside pocket of your jacket or somewhere else close to your body. We also recommend carrying your camera close to your body in order to keep the film pack and camera at operational temperature.

 

Shooting in the heat  (> 28°C):

 

Above 28°C (82°F), colour photos tend to develop with a yellow/red tint. When shooting at higher temperatures, cool your film packs in the fridge before taking them outside. You can minimise the effect of heat by letting the photo process in cooler surroundings, such as an air-conditioned room, an insulated bag, or beneath a cold beverage (be careful to avoid moisture though!).

 

Full article: How temperature affects Polaroid film

 

6. SHIELD IT!

 

Polaroid Originals film is sensitive to light even after it has been ejected from the camera. During these sensitive first few seconds, the film shield installed on your camera will extend on top of the photo and protect it from light. This allows enough time for the blue opacification layer to spread over the whole image.

 

After the first few moments have passed, your photo can be removed from under the film shield. However, it will still be sensitive to light! It should still be kept shielded from strong light sources. For example, try to keep the image:

 

  • Face down on a table
  • Inside a jacket pocket
  • Inside an empty film box

 

Shielding the photo during development time (check the back of your film package for specific times) will ensure that you get deeper saturation, sharper details and that your final image is not washed out.

 

Full article: Shielding your photos from light


Read how to install a film shield in a vintage Polaroid 600 camera in this article.

 

Read how to install a film shield on a vintage Polaroid SX-70 camera in this article.

 

7. PROPER STORAGE (DEVELOPED FILM)

 

After shooting Polaroid film, a number of chemical reactions will continue to occur. This is the only copy of your photo, so do your best to take care of it. This means keeping your photos out of direct sunlight and at a normal temperature.

 

30 days after exposure:

 

For long-term storage, we recommend that your photos are not compressed or sealed (in a photo album, for example) for the first 30 days. This will enable the photos to dry out completely and for the chemical processes to halt.

 

30+ days after exposure:

 

After 30 days, storing photos in an album or similar fashion is acceptable. Storing your photos in a dry, dark environment protected from UV radiation is always the best practice – if you want to frame your photos, we recommend using frames with UV protection.

 

Full article: How to store Polaroid film

 

8. RECYCLING YOUR FILM CARTRIDGES

 

We can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!

 

We recommend recycling empty film cartridges as per the laws in your local area. If you use 600, Spectra or SX-70 film, remember that your cartridges contain a lithium-ion battery, and you should dispose of the plastic cartridge, metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. For a guide on how to do this safely, see our guide below.

 

Full article: How to recycle your empty film pack

Watch the below video for a quick overview of the film options you have when shooting with your Polaroid or Polaroid Originals camera:

 

 

Polaroid Originals currently produces 5 distinct instant film formats. Some are cross-compatible across camera types, and some are not. The best way to tell which type of film your camera uses is to open the film door and look for a sticker which indicates the appropriate film type for your camera. The possibilities are:

 

  • i-Type
  • 600
  • SX-70
  • Spectra

Screen_Shot_2018-02-14_at_4.01.21_PM.png

 

All film types are briefly outlined below:

 

i-Type

Screen_Shot_2017-09-13_at_11.30.17.png       FAQpage-iType-filmcameras.jpg

 

Polaroid Originals created i-Type film exclusively for use with new Polaroid Originals cameras. The important difference between 600 and i-Type film is the absence of a battery inside the film cartridge. This means that i-Type film will not work with vintage Polaroid cameras. New Polaroid Originals cameras have a built-in rechargeable battery, so they don’t need a battery to power the camera.

 

However, if you want to use 600 film with your Polaroid Originals camera, such as a special edition film pack, it will still work.

 

600 Type

 

FAQpage-600-filmcameras.jpg 

600 is the most common film type for vintage cameras, and works with Polaroid’s popular 600 series of cameras. The majority of cameras will have a number in the 600-series in their name (e.g. Sun 660, LM630, SLR 680, and so on). You can always spot 600 film from its blue packaging. 600 film is also compatible with Polaroid Originals i-Type cameras, so if you ever want to use a special edition 600 film with your OneStep 2, you’ll have no problems at all.

 

SX-70 Type

FAQpage-SX70-filmcameras.jpg

 

SX-70 cameras operate slightly differently from other Polaroid™ instant cameras, so they need their own film. The biggest difference is the ASA – SX-70 film is roughly ¼ the sensitivity of 600 film, so it needs a lot more light to get a good photo. All folding-type cameras (except the 680/690 SLR models) use SX-70 film. 

 

SX-70 film is only available in classic colour and black & white editions, but if you want to use a special edition 600 film in your SX-70 camera, you can do so with a Neutral Density Filter. You can learn more about this, hereAlready got a Neutral Density film filter? Find full instructions on how to install it here.

 

Spectra Type

FAQpage-Spectra-filmcameras.jpg

 

Spectra film is distinctly different from our other instant film formats, as it has wider, landscape dimensions compared to the square format of most Polaroid film formats; 2.9″ x 3.5”, to be exact. As a result, only Spectra film works with Spectra cameras. More about Polaroid film dimensions, here


Film formats produced by Polaroid at some point in time which we do not support

 

Looking for packfilm? Please read our article on the subject, here.

 

If you’re still not sure which film to use with your camera, drop us an email, and we’ll help find the right film for you:

 

polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

Polaroid Vintage Cameras FAQs...

Polaroid Originals currently produces 5 distinct integral film formats:

Below is an incomplete list of cameras and film formats produced by Polaroid at some point in time which we do not support – at least not yet. This means that we do not sell, repair, or produce film for the models below:

  • Peel apart film (incl. Type 100, Type 80 and pro pack 4×5)
    Associated camera models: Model 180, 340 or 103
  • Roll film
    Associated camera models: Model 95, Swinger, J33
  • 35mm film
    Associated camera models: all Polaroid™ 
    35mm camera,  Polaroid™ auto-processor
  • Super 8 film
    Polaroid™ Supervision camera
  • iZone film
    Polaroid™ iZone camera
  • 500 film
    Polaroid™ Captive or Joycam
  • 4×5 film
    For camera back

We currently refurbish the following camera types:

– Polaroid 600
– Polaroid SX-70

All the refurbished cameras we sell are originals – not reproductions. They were produced by Polaroid in the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, so the cosmetic condition of each camera may vary slightly. Every camera comes with a one year limited warranty.

grey-polaroid-spectra-camera-one-switch-004700-angle__1_.jpg polaroid-spectra-camera-pro-cam-004703-angle__1_.jpg polaroid-spectra-camera-macro-5-004704-angle.jpg
Polaroid Spectra Polaroid ProCam Polaroid Macro5

 

The Polaroid™ Image/Spectra camera was introduced in 1986 and features a wider film format than the SX-70 or 600 cameras. This wider, cinematic format is able to capture brighter exposures.

There are a number of different Image/Spectra models. Some of them have simple settings, whilst others have a number of manual options such as the ability to deactivate the auto-focus, and a self-timer so you can put yourself in the shot. They all come with a built-in flash.

Here are some of the features that Polaroid™ Image/Spectra cameras have:

  • Spectra One Switch: exposure control slider
  • Spectra Full Switch: exposure control slider, flash, auto focus and sound override, self-timer and feet/meters distance selector
  • Built-in flash for shooting in darker lighting conditions and at nighttime
  • Polaroid Originals film shield to protect photos from light while developing
  • One year warranty & warranty card
SX70_Original_1503_side02.jpg SX70_Sonar_Silver_1513_side2__1_.jpg
Polaroid SX-70  Polaroid SX-70 Sonar AF 

The Polaroid™ SX-70 camera is probably the most well-known and iconic Polaroid™ instant camera:

  • Produced between 1972 and 1981
  • Features a unique folding mechanism that makes the camera the most compact of all Polaroid cameras
  • Works with all Polaroid Originals film packs for Polaroid™ SX-70 cameras featuring the classic square format

The SX-70 camera is a Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera, and is available as a standard model, with manual focus, and the Sonar model, featuring both manual focus and optional Sonar autofocus. The camera comes in a range of classic colors such as chrome with brown leather or black with black leather.

polaroid-600-camera-sun660-autofocus-004792-angle__1_.jpg black-polaroid-600-camera-impulse-autofocus-004707-angle.jpg polaroid-600-camera-slr680-004705-angle.jpg
 Polaroid Sun660 Polaroid Impulse AF Polaroid SLR680

 

From the bare-bones Polaroid Amigo to the exquisite Polaroid SLR680, and a ton options in between, such as the 636 Close-up, Sun660, 630 Lightmixer, Supercolor 635, Spirit 600 – just to name a few.

The Polaroid™ 600 camera was designed to make instant photography as simple as possible for photographers of any ability. Polaroid™ 600 series cameras can shoot under almost any conditions. With a new high-speed film, one-click focus (auto or fixed) and automatic flash settings (with manual override options), simplicity and ease-of-use are at the forefront of every 600 camera’s design.

600 cameras come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, but they share the same basic principles. Due to the wide variety of 600 cameras produced over the years, Polaroid Originals can’t guarantee the specific model you will receive when you order one through our online store. The exact name, design, color and cosmetic condition may vary from what is displayed. But all cameras are original vintage Polaroid™ cameras which have been carefully inspected, refurbished and tested by our team of repair technicians. You can read more about our refurbishment process here.

All 600 series cameras feature:

  • One-click photo taking procedure
  • Built-in electronic automatic flash
  • Polaroid Originals film shield (installed)
  • Lighten/Darken controls
  • 1 year limited warranty

All Polaroid, Polaroid Originals and Impossible i-Type cameras have some kind of exposure compensation, whether it’s a dial, a knob, a slider or a wheel. So, when should you be using it?

In most cases, your camera will make its own best assessment of your environment using a built-in light meter, and will usually do a pretty good job creating a balanced exposure. If you aren’t happy with the result of a photo, you can re-take the photo, making it lighter or darker using the camera’s exposure control. Below are some instances where you may get better results initially by manually tweaking the exposure a little bit.


Note: If you are shooting with SX-70 film, be sure to read this article first: Exposure Compensation on Polaroid SX-70


FAQpage-SX-70settings.jpg

Very Bright Sunlight:
Polaroid 600 – slide 1/4 towards darken
Polaroid SX-70 – slide 2/3 towards darken
Polaroid Image/Spectra – slide 1/4 towards darken

Normal Daylight:
Polaroid 600 – keep settings in the middle
Polaroid SX-70 – slide 1/3 towards darken
Polaroid Image/Spectra – keep settings in the middle

Subject is in Shadow in Daylight Environment:
Polaroid 600 – slide 1/4 towards lighten
Polaroid SX-70 – keep settings in the middle
Polaroid Image/Spectra – keep settings in the middle

Watch below to see how to install a film shield on their vintage Polaroid SX-70 folding-type camera:

 

Tools needed:

  • Film Shield for Polaroid folding cameras
  • 1 Polaroid photo

Installation Instructions:

  • Extend the film shield over the Polaroid photo (as shown on min. 0:28 in the video)
  • Open the film door of the camera
  • Above the rollers, slide the film shield through the ejection slot (see min. 0:41)
  • Now the shield is in place (just remove the Polaroid photo)

The film shield is now installed on your SX-70 camera.

Watch below to see how to install a film shield on their vintage Polaroid box-type camera:

 

Tools needed:

  • Screwdriver
  • Polaroid Originals film shield
  • Polaroid box-type camera

Installation Instructions:

With the film door open, locate the tabs (usually they are black) and use a flathead screwdriver to push them out. Next, remove the front panel and align the film shield in a way that it unrolls as shown in the video, such that it would cover an exiting photo. Lastly, snap it back onto the front camera. Be extra careful not to snap the plastic tabs on the front panel!

The film shield is now installed on your camera.

Dirty rollers are the most common cause of visible film defects. In order to spread the developer paste between the negative and positive components of the photo, each picture goes through the two metal rollers as they exit the film door. If they are dirty or just a little uneven, the chemistry will not be evenly spread across the photo.

We recommend that you inspect your rollers between every pack of film, and clean them every 2-3 packs – even if they look perfectly clean to you. The rollers are accessible by opening the film door compartment of the camera (the film can remain in the camera while cleaning)

You can easily clean them with a soft cloth, dampened slightly with clean water. Allow the rollers to dry completely before using your camera again.

 

The below photos are examples of common roller-related film defects:

wFilm-Issue---Roller-Dots-Ex2-_IC_.jpg

photo Ilona Cerowski

    wFilm-Issue---ChemLeak-Ex1-_LJ_.jpg

    photo Liana Joyce

Please click here for further support or alternatively email us at polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

Polaroid Zink Film FAQs...

Unfortunately, we can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!

Please carefully dispose of your empty film cartridges as per the law in your local area. Keep in mind that our film packs for vintage Polaroid cameras (600, SX-70 and Spectra) contain a lithium-ion battery inside the film pack.

This may mean that you need to dispose of the plastic cassette, the metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. If this is the case for you, then please follow our guide on how to safely dismantle and separate your empty film cartridge below.

Be sure to tape over the silver electrical contacts on the battery with duct tape (or similar) to prevent dangerous electrical conductivity.

 

 

Here are the instructions to recycle your empty Polaroid film pack:

  1. Crush the opening of the film pack (where the film comes out) with your thumbs to create a larger opening

  2. Remove the spring – carefully! Some of the edges are pretty sharp.

  3. Remove the battery – and cover the electrical contacts with tape immediately.

  4. Dispose of the plastic cassette, metal spring and lithium-ion battery separately.

    Note: You can dispose of batteries in most stores that sell them, as well as big box stores, supermarkets, town halls, schools and libraries. Your local government authority will have information available to help find the best place for you.

 

If you are at all uncertain about this process, please get in touch with our Customer Support team directly and, we’ll guide you through the dismantling procedure safely.

X-ray machines affect your film. It’s best to keep it in your carry-on, but to ask for a hand-check instead. 

Film in checked-in luggage will be most likely affected. 

In the past, the carry-on x-ray scanners did not damage the film. But since the end of 2019, new scanners are being installed in certain airports. These scanners damage the film as they do a 360° scan using a higher radiation dose. Therefore, we recommend having the film hand-checked. This will guarantee that the film is not damaged by the radiation. 

Damaged film typically shows a pinkish hue and a washed-out, foggy look throughout the photo. Great, if you’re a fan of all things pink, but not so much for everyone else. 

A note about exposed film (film you’ve already exposed) is completely unaffected by x-rays, so it will be fine in any baggage. 

Please click here for further support or alternatively email us at polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

To load a pack of film in an Impossible or Polaroid camera, slide the film door latch to open the film door. Push the film cassette all the way in, with darkslide up and plastic base at the bottom.

 

When you close the film door, the darkslide will eject from the camera automatically, underneath the Film Shield. The plastic Film Shield is designed to protect images from light as they develop – it should not be removed. Take the darkslide out from under the Film Shield and let the Film Shield roll back up. If the darkslide has not ejected, take out the film pack and re-insert it, making sure it is pushed all the way to the back of the camera.

 

If you’re still unsure, watch Peter and Heinz do it below:

 

Here’s a detailed guide to getting the best results with Polaroid Originals film. Check the list of contents below for specific points, or have a read through to get the whole picture.

 

  1. Proper storage (undeveloped/unexposed film)
  2. Expiration dates
  3. Camera roller maintenance
  4. Exposure compensation
  5. Temperature
  6. Shield it!
  7. Proper storage (developed film)
  8. Recycling your film cartridges

 

 1. PROPER STORAGE (UNDEVELOPED / UNEXPOSED FILM)

 

Proper storage of Polaroid Originals film will ensure that the film chemistry remains stable and that your photos achieve and retain the best color, contrast and detail for as long as possible.

Polaroid Original film packs should be stored in their unopened, sealed packaging in a cool and dry environment. We recommend storing our film flat inside a fridge at a constant temperature between 4 – 18°C / 41 – 65°F. Do not freeze your film packs! This will damage the chemistry and your film will not perform properly when used.

Our film will not perform as desired at cooler temperatures. Therefore, it must be allowed to return to room temperature before use. We recommend allowing at least 1 hour to allow your film to return to ambient temperature before shooting.

 

Full article: How to store Polaroid film

 

2. EXPIRATION DATES

 

All Polaroid Original film should be used within 12 months of production date for best results (you can find the production date stamped on the bottom of each film package).

Chemical changes occur as our film ages, and this will eventually affect how well your film performs. While proper storage will mitigate the effects of chemical ageing, the expiration date marks the point in this process after which it is unlikely that the film will produce images that meet our standards of quality. You will still get some variety of result from expired film, but there may be artefacts or defects for which we are unable to accept warranty claims.

 

3. CAMERA ROLLER MAINTENANCE

 

In order to spread the chemistry between the negative and positive part of the photo, the picture goes through two rollers found inside the film door of your camera. If they are dirty, the chemistry will not be spread evenly. This is the most common source of undesirable film defects.


Therefore, you should regularly check that the rollers of your camera are clean. They are accessible by opening the film door compartment of the camera, and can be easily cleaned with a soft cloth, dampened with clean water. We recommend checking the rollers of your camera before inserting each pack of film, and cleaning them regularly – even when they look clean to the naked eye.

 

 Full article: How to clean your camera rollers

 

4. EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

 

Most Polaroid Originals film types have the correct/original ASA and do not require exposure compensation. This list includes: i-Type, 600, Spectra, and 8×10 Film.

 

The exception is, of course, the SX-70. Polaroid Originals’ current generation of SX-70 film has a slightly higher ASA/ISO than its traditional Polaroid counterpart. This means that our film is more sensitive to light, or “faster”. We recommend that you adjust the exposure wheel or slide on your Polaroid camera 1/3 towards the darken setting when shooting in bright, well-lit conditions.

 

If you are shooting using your camera’s built-in flash, make sure that the lighten/darken wheel or slider of your camera is adjusted to the middle position. Keep in mind that the built-in flash on Polaroid cameras is usually only effective in a range of 1 – 2.5 meters (3.3 – 8.2 ft).

 

Full article: Exposure Compensation on your Polaroid Camera

 

5. TEMPERATURE

 

Polaroid Originals film works best in temperatures between 13 – 28°C (55 – 82°F). Temperatures significantly outside of that range can affect Polaroid Originals instant film in terms of development time and colour.

 

Shooting in the cold (< 13°C):

 

Below 13°C (55°F), photos tend to emerge over-exposed, lacking colour contrast and with a cyan (blue) tint. When shooting at lower temperatures, let your images develop in the inside pocket of your jacket or somewhere else close to your body. We also recommend carrying your camera close to your body in order to keep the film pack and camera at operational temperature.

 

Shooting in the heat  (> 28°C):

 

Above 28°C (82°F), colour photos tend to develop with a yellow/red tint. When shooting at higher temperatures, cool your film packs in the fridge before taking them outside. You can minimise the effect of heat by letting the photo process in cooler surroundings, such as an air-conditioned room, an insulated bag, or beneath a cold beverage (be careful to avoid moisture though!).

 

Full article: How temperature affects Polaroid film

 

6. SHIELD IT!

 

Polaroid Originals film is sensitive to light even after it has been ejected from the camera. During these sensitive first few seconds, the film shield installed on your camera will extend on top of the photo and protect it from light. This allows enough time for the blue opacification layer to spread over the whole image.

 

After the first few moments have passed, your photo can be removed from under the film shield. However, it will still be sensitive to light! It should still be kept shielded from strong light sources. For example, try to keep the image:

 

  • Face down on a table
  • Inside a jacket pocket
  • Inside an empty film box

 

Shielding the photo during development time (check the back of your film package for specific times) will ensure that you get deeper saturation, sharper details and that your final image is not washed out.

 

Full article: Shielding your photos from light


Read how to install a film shield in a vintage Polaroid 600 camera in this article.

 

Read how to install a film shield on a vintage Polaroid SX-70 camera in this article.

 

7. PROPER STORAGE (DEVELOPED FILM)

 

After shooting Polaroid film, a number of chemical reactions will continue to occur. This is the only copy of your photo, so do your best to take care of it. This means keeping your photos out of direct sunlight and at a normal temperature.

 

30 days after exposure:

 

For long-term storage, we recommend that your photos are not compressed or sealed (in a photo album, for example) for the first 30 days. This will enable the photos to dry out completely and for the chemical processes to halt.

 

30+ days after exposure:

 

After 30 days, storing photos in an album or similar fashion is acceptable. Storing your photos in a dry, dark environment protected from UV radiation is always the best practice – if you want to frame your photos, we recommend using frames with UV protection.

 

Full article: How to store Polaroid film

 

8. RECYCLING YOUR FILM CARTRIDGES

 

We can’t reuse or recycle empty film cartridges on your behalf – sorry!

 

We recommend recycling empty film cartridges as per the laws in your local area. If you use 600, Spectra or SX-70 film, remember that your cartridges contain a lithium-ion battery, and you should dispose of the plastic cartridge, metal spring and the lithium-ion battery all separately. For a guide on how to do this safely, see our guide below.

 

Full article: How to recycle your empty film pack

Watch the below video for a quick overview of the film options you have when shooting with your Polaroid or Polaroid Originals camera:

 

 

Polaroid Originals currently produces 5 distinct instant film formats. Some are cross-compatible across camera types, and some are not. The best way to tell which type of film your camera uses is to open the film door and look for a sticker which indicates the appropriate film type for your camera. The possibilities are:

 

  • i-Type
  • 600
  • SX-70
  • Spectra

Screen_Shot_2018-02-14_at_4.01.21_PM.png

 

All film types are briefly outlined below:

 

i-Type

Screen_Shot_2017-09-13_at_11.30.17.png       FAQpage-iType-filmcameras.jpg

 

Polaroid Originals created i-Type film exclusively for use with new Polaroid Originals cameras. The important difference between 600 and i-Type film is the absence of a battery inside the film cartridge. This means that i-Type film will not work with vintage Polaroid cameras. New Polaroid Originals cameras have a built-in rechargeable battery, so they don’t need a battery to power the camera.

 

However, if you want to use 600 film with your Polaroid Originals camera, such as a special edition film pack, it will still work.

 

600 Type

 

FAQpage-600-filmcameras.jpg 

600 is the most common film type for vintage cameras, and works with Polaroid’s popular 600 series of cameras. The majority of cameras will have a number in the 600-series in their name (e.g. Sun 660, LM630, SLR 680, and so on). You can always spot 600 film from its blue packaging. 600 film is also compatible with Polaroid Originals i-Type cameras, so if you ever want to use a special edition 600 film with your OneStep 2, you’ll have no problems at all.

 

SX-70 Type

FAQpage-SX70-filmcameras.jpg

 

SX-70 cameras operate slightly differently from other Polaroid™ instant cameras, so they need their own film. The biggest difference is the ASA – SX-70 film is roughly ¼ the sensitivity of 600 film, so it needs a lot more light to get a good photo. All folding-type cameras (except the 680/690 SLR models) use SX-70 film. 

 

SX-70 film is only available in classic colour and black & white editions, but if you want to use a special edition 600 film in your SX-70 camera, you can do so with a Neutral Density Filter. You can learn more about this, hereAlready got a Neutral Density film filter? Find full instructions on how to install it here.

 

Spectra Type

FAQpage-Spectra-filmcameras.jpg

 

Spectra film is distinctly different from our other instant film formats, as it has wider, landscape dimensions compared to the square format of most Polaroid film formats; 2.9″ x 3.5”, to be exact. As a result, only Spectra film works with Spectra cameras. More about Polaroid film dimensions, here


Film formats produced by Polaroid at some point in time which we do not support

 

Looking for packfilm? Please read our article on the subject, here.

 

If you’re still not sure which film to use with your camera, drop us an email, and we’ll help find the right film for you:

 

polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

Shipping & Returns FAQs...

So, whether your item is considered a newly-manufactured good (like a brand new Polaroid OneStep 2 camera), a vintage item (like a Polaroid 600 camera) or a semi-perishable good (such as an instant film pack) will also be a factor.

 

 

New cameras (Polaroid OneStep 2, Impossible I-1): 1 year

 

Vintage cameras (Polaroid 600): 1 year

 

Film and accessories: limited warranty*

 

 

*limited warranty means that these items are excluded from the standard warranty due to their perishable nature, and warranty claims will be assessed on a case-by-case basis assuming storage and use have been fully compliant with provided guidelines.

Standard Return Policy

 

Online purchases may be returned for refund within 14 days provided the product is returned in original condition and a receipt is provided if change of mind occurs. Please note, this will incur a 15% restocking fee which will be deducted from total purchase price when your refund is processed.

 

Exceptions apply:

 

We cannot accept the return of opened film packages; all film packages must be in an unopened condition in order for us to offer a refund. This is due to the perishable nature of the product which is protected inside its original packaging. Once the seal of the film box has been broken, the film is no longer in a controlled environment and is highly sensitive to environmental and shipping-related variables.

 

Please also note that the customer is responsible for the costs of the return shipment and bears the risk of the return – so pack the items carefully!

 

The above applies primarily to unwanted products, as opposed to products which are exhibiting a manufacturing defect. If you have purchased products through our online shop which you believe are defective in any way, please get in touch and your claim will be evaluated under our limited warranty. For full details regarding our product warranty, please see our Terms & Conditions.

 

All returns are handled on a case-by-case basis: you will need to get in touch with us via email. Remember to provide your order ID in the message.

 

polaroid@brandsaustralia.com

Please allow up to 7 business days for standard shipping. For express shipping shipping, please allow up to 4 days. We will endeavour to ship your order quicker, if you do need your order faster please contact customer services on 1300 728 606 or email  polaroid@brandsaustralia.com to arrange

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